Too Much FOC - Bow Hunting

Q: Hi Joe. I just switched to Victory’s VAP arrows, which use outsert-type adapters. I like the arrow’s slim design a lot, but I’m concerned about the arrow’s front-of-center (FOC) weight.

These arrows offer two types of outserts: aluminum (33 grains) or stainless-steel (92 grains). So far I really like the stainless steel version since it’s extremely durable, but they do increase the arrow’s FOC a lot when using a 100-grain point. I know adding FOC is a good thing for long-range accuracy, but will this setup take this factor too far? How much would you consider too much FOC?

C.P., via email

A: You can’t really put a number on ideal FOC weight. It’s best to shoot groups and decide for yourselves. As you point out, added FOC can be a very good thing because it creates better arrow control. Anytime there’s less weight at the rear of the arrow, then the fletching doesn’t have to do as much to properly steer the arrow on course. This adds up to enhanced flight stability, especially with fixed-blade broadheads.

This is why Olympic archers that shoot 90 meters prefer heavy FOCs—to optimize accuracy while using small fletching for reduced wind drift.

In addition, higher FOC weights go better with shorter arrows. This has to do with the distance between the center balance of the arrow (the point at which it balances on your finger or pencil) and the weight of the fletching. This measurement is reduced anytime the arrow is shortened, and for this reason, shorter arrows are theoretically less stable in flight, thus the need for more FOC. 

However, going beyond say 18 to 20 percent FOC will certainly come with a trajectory tradeoff. If you often shoot beyond 50 yards, then you’ll notice a drastic arrow drop at this distance compared to a normal FOC of 8 to 12 percent. 

To counter an extreme FOC weight with your arrows, you can consider a couple options: 1. You can switch to 85-grain heads.
2. And you can start using an arrow wrap at the rear of the shaft.

Both of these will lessen your FOC value.  –Joe Bell

Source: Bow & Arrow Hunting

7 Accuracy Myths

Bow & Arrow

Through much analysis and testing, this bow hunter knows the truth behind these common bow-hunting fallacies.

Every now and then I come across a new promotional ad that claims how superior one bow hunting product is to another. Of course, being an insider of sorts, I take every one of these “catchy” pitches with a grain of salt.

Over my years as an archery technical guru, I've learned that many things just aren't true—especially smoky sales slogans. Much of my knowledge was gained by actual field experience and religious scientific testing, which seems to disprove many of these theories.

When it comes to bow-hunting gear, here are seven things that I just don't buy.

Myth #1
Mechanical Out-shoot Fixed Heads
This claim is based solely on blade surface area. Although certainly an important component behind broad-head aerodynamics, blade surface is not the only factor that determines how well a broadhead will shoot. 

For example, consistency, in terms of how precise the head is made from one to the next, is crucial as well. I define “consistency” as broad-heads that weigh within one grain or two of each other, no exceptions.

In my experience, most of today’s fixed heads are made more precise because they are machined from a smaller, shorter section of steel, and they utilize fewer moving components. This makes them easy to manufacturer and to keep tolerances extremely tight.

Another constituent is faulty blade capture on many of today's mechanical. Centrifugal force (fast spinning of the arrow) causes many expanding blades and o-rings to flop around at high speed (which you can’t see), causing added vibration and surface area that disrupts an arrow’s flight pattern. With fixed heads, nothing moves, so you don’t have this problem.

Lastly, most mechanical are difficult to practice with. I shoot every one of my hunting arrows several times at 40 yards, using the same broad-head I plan to hunt with. If the arrow/broad-head combo doesn't group well, multiple times, then it doesn't make the cut.

When accuracy is good, I inscribe a small “G” on the arrow's vane using a Sharpie marker, then I install new broad-head blades (or sharpen them), double check alignment by spinning the arrow across rollers and load the arrow in the quiver.

With some mechanical, it’s hard to practice over and over with the same head, without redoing rubber bands, securing blades with wire or epoxy (which changes the grain weight), or dealing with snapped-off blades. The normal procedure is to use a “practice head,” but not all these target heads match the exact blade geometry of the real broad-head, which certainly lessens my confidence.

I’m certainly not saying that all mechanical are poorly designed. Some I actually plan to use out hunting this fall, mainly the models that require little resistance to open and that you can also practice with without having to glue or wire the blades shut.

All in all, to say that mechanical are more accurate than “fixed heads” just isn't true.