Adventure - 48 Hours in Alaska - Bow Hunting

Join this bowhunter and his friend for an unforgettable experience in the wilds of the Alaskan backcountry.

Planning a do-it-yourself bowhunt to Alaska is an adventure in itself. This was my sixth such trip to the great state. My buddy Jason and I went together and I thought we were prepared for anything that would be thrown at us. We had been planning this trip for over a year. We decided to use the transporter, 40 Mile Air, out of Tok, to do a drop-camp for caribou. We would be hunting the 40 Mile caribou herd, which is known for producing some nice record-book caribou every season. The 40 Mile herd is one of Alaska’s smaller caribou herds with an estimated 40,000 animals. I guess 40,000 animals is small when compared to the Alaskan Western Artic herd, which is reportedly over 400,000 animals strong.

The logistics of getting to Tok went off without a hitch, and it wasn’t long before I was climbing into the back seat of the Piper Super Cub aircraft. This was my first ride in a Cub, and to say I was excited would be an understatement. Jason had his own plane to ride in. Our pilots, Leif and Randy, gave us an incredible one-hour flight to the leading edge of the 40 mile herd. Surprisingly, we only spotted a few bears, moose and a lone wolf during the flight. No caribou. It wasn’t until we cleared the last ridge that we spotted the first few caribou. Then we spotted a wave of caribou in the valley that we were going to land in. We literally had caribou on our short Cub landing strip, which was nothing more than a 100-yard flat spot of gravel, clear of brush and boulders.

Caribou Everywhere
That day, Jason and I set up a modest but comfortable camp. Because of weight limitations on the Cub flight, we had lightweight backpacking gear and freeze-dried food. We had enough supplies for our planned eight days in the bush. Alaska law prohibits hunting the same day you fly so we had to sit in camp and watch beautiful caribou bulls migrating through the valley. What a wonderful sight we had waited a long time to see.
The next morning we woke up to a dense fog and heavy drizzle. This was far from prime hunting conditions. Excitement was in the air, though, as we had prepared and traveled a long ways to get to this moment in time. I decided to make a hot cup of coffee, soak in the beautiful surroundings and give my wife, Jennifer, a call on the sat phone. I wanted to tell her we had arrived to camp safely.


5 Tips for Planning Your Trip

#1: Planning: I consider planning a bowhunting trip to Alaska as part of the adventure. First off you need to know what your goal is and what kind of adventure you are looking for. There are many things to consider. To hunt some species you are required to have a guide. Most of the other species are affordable for the middle-class DIY hunter. You also need to decide what type of hunt is available for that particular species you want to hunt and if it’s possible to hunt multiple species. Resources I use for planning my hunts are the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, the internet, and the most reliable is a personal friend or acquaintance who had done the hunt before.

#2: Equipment: My suggestion is to buy the best equipment you can afford. Some standard equipment used in the lower 48 states might have to be considered survival equipment in Alaska, ie - tent, sleeping bag, rain gear... Buying cheap gear at Wally World isn’t going to cut it in Alaska. One other thing to consider is weight. Most likely your trip will involve some type of flying. Whether it is a commercial or bush flight, there will be weight limitations. Know what these limits are and pack accordingly. Some equipment is better off rented when you arrive in Alaska. There are many rental services available. Check ahead and secure the rental equipment before you go.

#3: Packing: The logistics involved in getting to your hunting destination may involve several different modes of travel: Commercial airline, vehicle, boat, bush plane, raft… You have to be prepared and knowledgeable for every leg of your trip. I’ve found that packing gear in to small organized soft duffle bags work best. It’s much easier to get these smaller bags in to the cargo compartment of a small plane and your pilot will appreciate it. You can then put the smaller bags in to a larger duffle for the commercial flight and leave that bag with the transporter while you are in the field. If possible, these duffle bags should be waterproof. There’s a good chance you will encounter wet weather on your hunt, lots of it. Another good container is an ice chest or large plastic tub. These containers can be left with the transporter and will be helpful with getting all that precious meat home. The standard airline approved hard case for your bow will help get it there intact.

#4: Safety Gear: Like I mentioned earlier, some gear you bring may be used to save your life. Bring a good quality synthetic sleeping bag and four season tent. It’s almost a guarantee that you will encounter inclement weather which  you will not be able to hunt in. I’ve spent many huntless days stuck in a tent because of the weather. I consider rain gear as safety gear. If you get wet, hypothermia is a real possibility. Most outdoorsmen in Alaska prefer durable PVC rain gear like Helly Hanson Impertech. Bring a satellite phone. You can use it to communicate with the transporter as well as get help in the case of an emergency. There are satellite phone rental companies located in Alaska and the lower 48.

#5: Meat Transportation: Getting your meat and trophy home should be included in your trip planning. I’ve explored different methods to accomplish this and found out that it can be costly if you are not prepared. If you are flying you must know the rules for each leg of your trip. The rules vary between airlines and transporters. Generally, the meat bags need to be manageable and under fifty pounds. The containers should be approved,  good quality and leak proof. Antlers are not allowed on some airlines. Meat and antlers can be shipped through some commercial cargo companies as they ship perishables to and from Alaska. Know the transportation rules before you go and be prepared. There is nothing better than barbequed caribou steaks after a successful DIY hunt in Alaska.

By Ed Fanchin

Posted by Bow and Arrow Hunting Magazine

Made to Be Mobile

If you’re tired of bulky, heavy climbing sticks, then Gorilla’s new King Kong climbing sticks should fill the bill. They are not only safe and durable, but they are lighter, thanks to combining durable steel construction with lightweight aluminum steps. The new climbing sticks are extremely portable and built with the mobile hunter in mind. Each stick easily locks to the other, while the aluminum steps conveniently fold out of the way. The saw-tooth step design is built for superior footing and traction even in slick conditions. Each stick is securely and strongly assembled with XT-6TM red nylon bushings and washers. The King Kong climbing sticks fit trees ranging in size from 8 to 22 inches in diameter. Each stick weighs four pounds, measures 32 inches (3 pack), and is rated for 250 pounds.Visit www.gorillatreestands.com.

Posted By: Bow & Arrow Hunting

7 Accuracy Myths

Bow & Arrow

Through much analysis and testing, this bow hunter knows the truth behind these common bow-hunting fallacies.

Every now and then I come across a new promotional ad that claims how superior one bow hunting product is to another. Of course, being an insider of sorts, I take every one of these “catchy” pitches with a grain of salt.

Over my years as an archery technical guru, I've learned that many things just aren't true—especially smoky sales slogans. Much of my knowledge was gained by actual field experience and religious scientific testing, which seems to disprove many of these theories.

When it comes to bow-hunting gear, here are seven things that I just don't buy.

Myth #1
Mechanical Out-shoot Fixed Heads
This claim is based solely on blade surface area. Although certainly an important component behind broad-head aerodynamics, blade surface is not the only factor that determines how well a broadhead will shoot. 

For example, consistency, in terms of how precise the head is made from one to the next, is crucial as well. I define “consistency” as broad-heads that weigh within one grain or two of each other, no exceptions.

In my experience, most of today’s fixed heads are made more precise because they are machined from a smaller, shorter section of steel, and they utilize fewer moving components. This makes them easy to manufacturer and to keep tolerances extremely tight.

Another constituent is faulty blade capture on many of today's mechanical. Centrifugal force (fast spinning of the arrow) causes many expanding blades and o-rings to flop around at high speed (which you can’t see), causing added vibration and surface area that disrupts an arrow’s flight pattern. With fixed heads, nothing moves, so you don’t have this problem.

Lastly, most mechanical are difficult to practice with. I shoot every one of my hunting arrows several times at 40 yards, using the same broad-head I plan to hunt with. If the arrow/broad-head combo doesn't group well, multiple times, then it doesn't make the cut.

When accuracy is good, I inscribe a small “G” on the arrow's vane using a Sharpie marker, then I install new broad-head blades (or sharpen them), double check alignment by spinning the arrow across rollers and load the arrow in the quiver.

With some mechanical, it’s hard to practice over and over with the same head, without redoing rubber bands, securing blades with wire or epoxy (which changes the grain weight), or dealing with snapped-off blades. The normal procedure is to use a “practice head,” but not all these target heads match the exact blade geometry of the real broad-head, which certainly lessens my confidence.

I’m certainly not saying that all mechanical are poorly designed. Some I actually plan to use out hunting this fall, mainly the models that require little resistance to open and that you can also practice with without having to glue or wire the blades shut.

All in all, to say that mechanical are more accurate than “fixed heads” just isn't true.

Bow Hunting - Hot Deer Items

Take a look at these proven performers and must-have items for 2012.

When it comes to bowhunting whitetails, good gear is a must. That’s why each year I try to report on what I think are the very best. Here’s my take on the best deer-hunting items for 2012.

Creating the Right Setup
Before one can harvest deer, you have to have them on the property, and it does not hurt to keep them there. Having worked as a consultant for some of the top outfitters, as well as managing ground, I have experimented with many different commercial seed blends. In the end, I always keep coming back to Antler King products (www.anterking.com).

This past year I was given the management responsibilities for a 1,550-acre property. The first thing I realized was that the land was woefully lacking in food sources and very overpopulated with deer.

Matters were made worse by experiencing a wet planting season, only to be followed by a bad drought. In the end, the only plantings to make it were Antler King’s Trophy Clover and Fall/Winter/Spring Food Plot Blend.

Of course, the food plots also serve as great locations to setup scouting cameras. Over the years, I’ve tried every camera on the market. My goals were seemingly simple: find a unit that doesn’t spook deer, captures deer on a consistent basis and doesn’t break down. Good battery life would also be a bonus but not as critical as capturing my targets without altering their patterns. I’ve been burnt by that too many times and refused to do that again.

Luckily, I finally found my answer on that same 1,550-acre chunk of ground. The owners set me up with 26 assorted Reconyx cameras. Though I’d used Reconyx units before, this was the first time I’d tried the HC600. In just a couple weeks, I was so sold to the point that I bought four myself. From mid-August through mid-January, I ran 30 Reconyx units, 10 of which were the HC600s. Not a single unit broke down and each consistently caught deer that entire time (www.reconyx.com).

One of the biggest problems with the vast majority of scouting cameras is the noise they produce. Out of over 400,000 pictures, not once did a deer appear to spook from camera noise. Additionally, not a single deer showed any indication that they noticed the HC600s in any way, and I routinely placed them in very close quarters.

I know the price of the HC600s is a bit overwhelming, but I’ve felt the sting of my cameras spooking the buck I was after too many times. I’d rather run one or 2 HC600s than 5 of any other I’ve ever used.